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Discussion Starter #1
Receivers, trigger groups and those hard to get brushes into places?

I generally fill a tray with Hoppes #9 and use toothbrushes or acid bushes but
it is messy and tedious.

How do you guys do it?
 

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Be careful with it though. I inadvertently used brake clean on a Marlin Camp 9 and it melted the trigger guard. Since then I reserve it for those nooks and crannies in the receiver.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's what worries me . . a pal was over here the other day . . said I wasting my time, use Brake Clean. Something told me that was not a good idea. Thought I get a vote for other guys. Thanks!
 

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Be careful with it though. I inadvertently used brake clean on a Marlin Camp 9 and it melted the trigger guard. Since then I reserve it for those nooks and crannies in the receiver.

Bill
wow! usually safe on all synthetics! were you using the non-chlorinated stuff or the old formula? I moved to brake cleaner a long time ago when someone posted the material safety sheet for it and gun scrubber and decided i could not see any difference except for triple the price. It works great for degreasing little parts before painting too
 

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Brake cleaner or gun scrubber only for deep cleaning or scope screws before lock-tight. If I'm cleaning parts up to pistol frame size it's into the ultrasonic and steam cleaner.
All of these remove all oil from the finish so they get a CLP drenching then excess wiped off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've got some nice WWI, WWII, Korea, Vietnam, mil surps and don't want to risk damage to stocks, park finish etc.
That's what I'm worried about mostly.
 

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I use brake cleaner for AR bolt carriers. Make sure it says non-chlorinated on the can. I think most of them are now. Brake cleaner has its uses but do it outdoors and hold everything at arms length. You only make the mistake once of trying to “use just a little” on a rag in the basement. Most of those cans are seriously high pressure and the stuff comes out like crap through a goose.
 

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I use it on the piston, especially the inside. I'll also put a drop on a cotton swab to clean the bolt face and other stubborn areas.

If you ever see term "dry cleaning solvent " used in a TM, that's the same as GunBlast, etc.
 

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Not that your going to weld on your gun parts BUT - when using chlorinated Brake Cleaner with the argon gas and high heat of TIG welding - it creates a Phosgene gas - you will notice how it chokes you, but the part you don't realize is the blistering of your lungs - it is NOT good stuff to keep in your shops if you weld. Using the non-chlorinated brakekleen is better in that respect - but it does still have an effect on some plastics and seals (not necessarily gun related - but definitely health related for those of you who were not aware and keep this product in your work areas). I've used it on guns only after stock wood or plastic are removed - it will clean, but it will also damage finish and some plastics as others have already noted.
 

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The other thing to remember about the brake cleaner is that it takes ALL the oil out of whatever it touches. Watch how it takes parkerized parts and turns them an ashen grey. Obviously gas system components are made to run dry. But if you live in a high humidity area and are storing your rifle for a long period of time, I’d be a little concerned about hosing everything down with brake cleaner unless you apply some oil.
 

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I use it all the time but I don't use it on plastic. Since 99% of my collection consists of "wood and steel" it's not a problem. I use an old candy tin to catch it and then keep the run off in a vapor sealed bottle for use at a later date when I need to deep soak and scrub some very stubborn stuff. Works good for stripping crud off of wooden stocks prior to retreating them with BLO. Use with lots of ventilation. 🏴‍☠️
 

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I've used it for decades, but not the chlorine stuff! I use on barrels too after multiple Hoppies and bore paste. Don't use on anything painted with aerosols or plastic. Paint blisters. It cleans and leaves dry. Then, you must wipe down with oil of your choice. I always run oil saturated patch through barrel after cleaning and prior to storage.
 

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I love non-clorinated brake cleaner - especially when it is only $1.99 a can at NAPA!

YES - non-chlorinated brake cleaner (any brand on sale) is awesome for cleaning firearms! From trigger groups to bore.
YES - chlorinated brake cleaner will melt plastic - I've seen this done to a Glock - puddle of ick.
YES - wear safety glasses because it WILL shoot your eye out and it hurts like hell.

Be careful by wood - it will remove coloration / finish sometimes.

I've been using it for over 20 years and a first step in the gun cleaning process. Cheap - easy - pressurized to blast gunk out of tight spots, love it.
 

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Hello,
Well, If so, I'm screwed...
You mean, it hasn't ok to clean my hands with lacquer thinners as an auto body repair person? or wipe down a car with dewaxing solvents without gloves on?.... humm, 40+ yrs of not wearing gloves doing all types of mechanical and metal work of one sort or another.... and, my hands do show it... Now, I've got too watch out for Parkinson's Disease, thanks for the info Rich.
By the how are you doing? Safe and well I hope.
 

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Hello,
Well, If so, I'm screwed...
You mean, it hasn't ok to clean my hands with lacquer thinners as an auto body repair person? or wipe down a car with dewaxing solvents without gloves on?.... humm, 40+ yrs of not wearing gloves doing all types of mechanical and metal work of one sort or another.... and, my hands do show it... Now, I've got too watch out for Parkinson's Disease, thanks for the info Rich.
By the how are you doing? Safe and well I hope.
PM sent
 
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