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Discussion Starter #1
I have an old Browning Auto 5 with a Cutts compensator. If I hand tighten the choke, it comes loose while I'm shooting. If I tighten the choke with the wrench (just till it stops) it seizes and I have to place the barrel in a vise to get enough leverage to get the choke off. I've checked, and it is not cross threaded. This has happened more than once. Anyone have experiance putting anti seize on the threads? I am thinking it will be ok. I put it on the lugs for the tires on the cars, and I would think there is more force at play there, and if the lug nuts are properly torqued, the tire dosen't come off.

Thanks
 

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I've used anti-seize paste on several different applications from motorcycles to tools and it's always worked well for me. I would not hesitate to apply it to a SG choke if I needed it. Use it sparingly, though.
 

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choke

There are several products on the market specifically made for choke tubes to prevent seizing. Google choke tube lube.
 

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Choke tube lube is basically graphite but I can't think of any reason why anti-seize lube wouldn't be as good. Might be squirrely old threads on that Cutts, which would be easy enough to check if you could try another one.
 

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Use it

Anything is better than nothing. Use the anti seize. A stuck choke tube can be a real PIA to remove without damaging the barrel. BTDT GI1

Honer
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you! Will use anti seize till I get the choke tube lube.
 

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I've always just used oil (3n1 oil for many years, now either 3n1 or Mobil 1) with no issues. The M97 polychoke is adjustable by hand (as it should be) and the screw in choke in the 11-87 is easily removed with the wrench.

The old Auto 5 on the other hand (bought well/hard used with the polychoke on it) was siezed up when I got it and so far I've been unable to loosen it with vise grips, propane torch, or water pump pliers. If it wasn't for a gunsmith telling me some of the Auto 5's came with poly chokes on them I'd have had it cut off a couple of years ago and screw in chokes installed.
 

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I use the stuff made for choke tubes.

I'd rather not find out the stuff I used did any damage to the tube or my shotgun.
 

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Simplistic but a little 3-1 and tighten lightly with a wrench as mentioned above. I check it with my finger when I'm hunting and it's been loose on occasion so I just tightened with my finger till I get home. Not a big deal for me. Not like it's gonna back out in 1 string and fly across the decoys.

L
 

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Use keyboard cleaner, the cold air spray stuff, on the choke from the inside. It should shrink the metal enough to break it loose without a vise. Just a thought... :)
That's absolutely brilliant... but hold the spray can upside down so that the liquid stuff sprays out of the tube instead of the "air", and wear gloves. I'll bet it will work.
 

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You might think about using a combination of Teflon tape + this in the threads of your choke tubes. Clean and degrease, then teflon tape, then anti-seize.



It does three things: 1] Seals the threads so gasses and carbon don't creep in (especially in aftermarket tubes or poorly machined equipment) and contribute to a stuck choke tube; 2] Prevents the choke from unscrewing itself during high volume shooting, and; 3] Ensures you can actually get the choke back out of the barrel if you drop it in the water and not clean it, leave the gun in a case all season, or neglect taking the choke out of the gun for years. (Waterfowlers are notoriously hard on their equipment).

A couple of run throughs of a boresnake and brass wire brush around the threads will take everything out when you remove it.

I do a lot of waterfowling and put my shotguns through a lot of abuse, sometimes don't clean them and they always get wet. I would never consider putting a choke tube in without at least the 1600 degree anti-seize grease. Been there, have chokes permanently welded to the barrel. Just my opinion, hope this helps.
 

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I always use anti-seize on my choke tubes. Never had a problem removing them.
 

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Use keyboard cleaner, the cold air spray stuff, on the choke from the inside. It should shrink the metal enough to break it loose without a vise. Just a thought... :)
Thats my trick to shift sights in a dovetail.
Wolf
 
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