Has anyone found any advantage to using the old WW2 "milled" handguard retainer clip as opposed to the standard late flat clips????
When I do a Garand, I do prefer to keep it as close to "Classic" as humanly possible, even when I tune them for NM accuracy. Having milled parts of the rifle is as classic as the design. It's like using a vented M14 handguard vs the solid one. I LIKE the vented handguards. I just make them thicker and stronger. I am talking with Mike Sadlak when I get a couple finished. If he wants to put them in production, fine by me. It's one of the ways I cheat the USMTU guidelines for accurizing an M1A. It allows the barrel to free float and it works better then the USMTU style of attaching the front band to the gas cylinder. As soon as I find out ways to post more stuff, I'll pull sections of my "project" and let you all get some "peeks".Has anyone found any advantage to using the old WW2 "milled" handguard retainer clip as opposed to the standard late flat clips????
The Marine Corps RTE Armorers solved the problem of handguard movement by usng Hysol Epoxy Patch Kit glue to glue on our handguards to the handgaurd clip and front band. Actually, they had used the same stuff to glue on M1 Handguards when they found it sometme in the mid to late 60's.I was curious if that when creating a NM M14,or Nam era M21 if you will,one of the things done IIRC (according to old NM instructions) was to lift the HG off the barrel using rubber (???) spacers similiar to "stick on weather stripping" for windows,that maybe the milled clip would hold tighter tension. I know about pushing the HG as far forward as possible and staking the clip slots on the barrel,,just kinda wondered is the extra tension from the milled clip helped at all.