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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello every one.
as i say I am new and already have some questions for you.
Please spend a second to see the photo and write smart advice for me.
Thank you.

PRESENT SITUATION after 200 rounds (greased according instructions from youtube :) :
Oprod wear (marked ORW); oprod guide loose in bad position (marked ORG) it is quite tight, but possible to move/push till position u see in the pic
- tilt test then - perfect with minimum angle (when oprod is not in the center).

Oprod disconnect tab is still in good dimensions presently. Some wear on the corners and some wear on receiver (pics RW).

When manually OR guide aligned to gas piston center then tilt test not good - need gentle push to move the OR.

It seams also that then OR has less tilt (movement in the place of receiver) when move handle up and down.

What to do step by step to make rifle function properly (tilt test pass and no progressive wear to parts)?

A) fix ORG - glue it or glue + peen? like forum links shows?
B) to do nothing just let the parts to adjust each other?
C) make some adjustment with some diamond abrasive?

please advice. Thank you.
 

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Here's how to fix and align a loose operating rod guide...

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBaeIzrQWAA&list=UUa9vbzHvKPvslKC2hCGjG0A[/ame]

So what I am understanding is that when you adjust the operating rod guide to align the operating rod with the gas cylinder, it does not pass the tilt test; correct?

Without seeing the rifle in person, I think the operating rod tab has worn into the track with the misalignment and once aligned, there's a little binding at the forward end of the receiver. The operating rod may need a little bending to get it into alignment, but it's very hard to describe and I would not want you to mess up your operating rod.

I would suggest knurling the barrel and aligning the operating rod and guide at first, but not using epoxy. Then fire it for a while and see if the parts wear into each other. If it does not function properly, then you can always adjust your guide to the original position.

Don't worry about the wear marks. They are normal. Just put grease where ever you see wear marks.

Good luck!

Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So what I am understanding is that when you adjust the operating rod guide to align the operating rod with the gas cylinder, it does not pass the tilt test; correct?

Without seeing the rifle in person, I think the operating rod tab has worn into the track with the misalignment and once aligned, there's a little binding at the forward end of the receiver. The operating rod may need a little bending to get it into alignment, but it's very hard to describe and I would not want you to mess up your operating rod.

I would suggest knurling the barrel and aligning the operating rod and guide at first, but not using epoxy. Then fire it for a while and see if the parts wear into each other. If it does not function properly, then you can always adjust your guide to the original position.

Don't worry about the wear marks. They are normal. Just put grease where ever you see wear marks.

Good luck!

Tony.
Thanks Tony,

when I adjust the operating rod guide to align the operating rod with the gas cylinder, it does not pass the tilt test; - YES

I will try knurling. straight stripes or crossed? How many rounds need to wear pars to each other? in case not to shoot to much?

I bit worry about this wear cos it is only after 200 rounds for "long lasting" rifle is a lot wear IMHO. I greased it twice before each set of 100 rounds. if such wear how often to grease?

Beanding oprod to adjust the track - cold work or with some thermo heating?
Bending of OR in twist movement or in some axis? can i brake it?
 

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I bent mine without heating it. You want to put it in a vise with wood blocks so it doesn't get scratched. I clamped the vise in the middle of the operating rod where the arm meets the tube for the operating rod spring. I pulled on the tube to bend the operating rod where the tube meets the arm. I tested it, then bent it again until it fit properly.

Here's a good post to read...

http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/119852-m14-op-rod-binding-does-not-pass-tilt-test.html

Tony.
 

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A few suggestions prior to bending the op rod.

Check barrel timing, if the timing is under or over rotated it can show as binding or wear between the op rod and barrel/receiver.

If possible after checking barrel timing and correcting if needed, swap out the gas cylinder with another, sometimes the splines are out of time either in the gas cylinder barrel hole or possible the barrel splines themselves. If the gas cylinder is loose on the barrel it can be moved to either side of the barrel by selective peening of the spline groves of the barrel one side or the other. The purpose of this alignment is to help center the op rod to the gas piston. Some misalignment is allowed between the op rod end and piston.


The op rod guide if loose on the barrel should be knurled with straight lines.

You can adjust op rod guide timing using a wood block and hammer. Lay the wood block flush with the side of the op rod guide you want to push against. With a slight change in angle adjust the wood block and hit it with the hammer. Have the barrel clamped in a vise with protective jaws to support the weapon during this process.

You want to avoid collapsing or changing the shape of the hole through the op rod guide.

It is possible to adjust the op rod movement using these suggestions. I have found it rare that an op rod needed bending. Not saying yours doesn't need bending, just suggesting before bending try other adjustments.


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks a lot.
I will try knurling and dry positioning to the center firs.
Before assembling take of sharp corners, dints of oprod with finest sharpener I have. Just to eliminate sharpness of weared areas.
Grease of cours.
After some shoot test will see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Hello,

after some local research i found that even local gunsmith do not have manual knurling tool. I was one used in US ebay, but gone. So i understand that it is quite rearithetic tool. I decided to build my own. I get the proper knurling wheel (perfect size for oprod guide just bit narrow tan ORG). If you need - i can manege more :) .
before i start to make the tool - Question is: in opposite side of dented wheel are the plain ones. Does they destroy or can destroy / smash knurling which is done by dented wheel when you turn the tool more then 180 degree?
Do you make more that 180 turns?

Another thing is - does glue as additional fix works for such thing at all? I mean hi temp, barrel move during fire, all the stresses. So there is a minimum of epoxy there between the parts.
 

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I would just call a machine shop or an industrial supply place, if you can. You can try knurling with the setup you have but I honestly don't know if the smooth wheels will smash your knurling. If possible, I'd make sure all the wheels are geared.

Good luck!

Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well, thanks for advices.

at the moment i fixed OPROD guide with heat resistant strong locktite and new pin.
Still holds (20-30 rounds).
Did not get knurling tool, I almost did it my self, in case Loctite do not hold.

gas cylinder - in center, hit mark in center. Shimming is done.

Tilt test - OK, superbly, but only when i detach that thin long metal part from outside... it has some contact with OR
It means that it holding slightly OR when this one moves. it is some traces of that contact on OR and on "this"part (sorry do not know how to name it).

Should i worry about that at the moment? or let it be for a while?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks for the link.

the part name is "connector assembly" CA- it is slightly touch OR.
If no CA then tilt test is superb (minimum angle), when i add it, the tilt test not good. more than 45 degree needed and some shake.
 

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Okay, so you have a REAL M14 with the full auto connector arm! Normally, that part is not on our civilian M14's. As long as the rifle functions fine, it's probably okay to have contact there. Just put some grease on the shiny parts where they contact and you should be okay.

Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thanks.
Should i rebuild the rifle each time when i would like to add some grease or check how wear is going? Or just observe from outside and add some where needed.
(i do it like you do) add some and wipe with finger. :) and i use plastilube.
Cos i plan to put kind of custom made sadlak scope mount and bit worry about bolt disassemble when zero the rifle.
Do not like the perspective to zero rifle each time when grease...

one more thanks for rapid replay.
 

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Unless you're rifle gets wet or muddy, or has sand in it, only take it down for a complete re-lube once a year. Lube what you can between trips. Take out the trigger group once in a while and lube what you can from underneath.

Tony.
 
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