[troberts289]

I have an unusual issue with a trigger I purchased for a new build. The trigger was advertised as (and appears to be) a new trigger made by Springfield for the M1A.

The second stage is the normal GI weight, with very little creep, and the trigger passes all the function tests outlined in Jerry Kuhnhausen's US 30 Caliber shop manual. By all measures its ready to drop in.

What's weird is that the travel distance of the first stage is considerably shorter on this new trigger than it is on my match rifle. That rifle has a trigger rebuilt by Smith Enterprises. It's second stage is considerably lighter, and I'm guessing this is also why the first stage travel is longer. From comparing the two I can see that the Smith's sear is engaging less of the hammer at the end of the first stage than the standard trigger does.

Is there a way to adjust the first stage travel without changing second stage weight? I'm setting up this second rifle as a lighter and shorter scout type, and I'd like to keep the heavier GI weight for that application.

Since my match gun, and my duty pistol (a P226) are both set up for a relatively long first stage I've really gotten used to it, and I don't want to switch it up now.

 

[ShootingSight]

If you have minimal creep, the length of the first stage pull is controlled by the length of the inside hammer hooks. To get a longer first stage, you need to make the hooks longer, which means taking metal off the hammer legs, just above the sear surface. Dunno if there is an approved method for doing this, but I imagine a dremel should be able to cope.

 

[JayKosta]

I think Art is correct, but I wouldn't mess with it!
With the trigger group out of the rifle, carefully watch and examine how the hammer is held fully rearward when the trigger is held fully back and the hammer is also fully back and held by its rear hooks.
Then slowly let the trigger move forward until the 'hand-off' allowing the hammer to move up and be caught (just in time) by the trigger. Allowing the trigger to move forward some more provides the full 1st stage trigger movement distance.

I fear that removing metal to 'lengthen the inside hammer hooks', might reduce the strength of those hooks and cause them to break.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

 

[smoothy8500]

In an old NRA publication I have on match conditioning the M1 Garand it covers trigger jobs. It discusses adjusting the trigger to increase first stage pull after smoothing the second stage. Your trigger modification probably had that done. The Complete M14 Assembly Guide by Kuleck and McKee briefly touches on the method used on trigger jobs.