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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks, looked for an answer cant find one so here goes, Took my Garand to the range and a new problem arose, a few times it automatic fired at least 2 rounds (did it quite smoothly and happy to say in a fun way) but cant have this happen again. So any ideas out there? Slam fire maybe? cheers and happy holidays, Phil
 

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Make sure your firing pin moves freely and not hanging up. Check your ammunition for high primers , especially if you reload....
 

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Your rear hammer hooks probably aren't engaging. I've seen them "double" like that. One round fires when you pull the trigger, and another when you let off.

Take your trigger assembly out and observe it functioning manually.
 

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Maybe as simple as your technic. It's easy to forget follow thru and end up bump firing the rifle without knowing it. Once you learn the difference it will stay with you.
 

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Your rear hammer hooks probably aren't engaging. I've seen them "double" like that. One round fires when you pull the trigger, and another when you let off.

Take your trigger assembly out and observe it functioning manually.
Someone may have done a 'kitchen-table' trigger job and cut the hammer hooks down too far. That will cause doubling in a New York minute! The only cure is a new/different hammer.
 

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before everyone 'boards the bus to Abilene,' on what is causing this, There are a few things to check here. One thing is to make sure when firing that you have a firm grip on the rifle. If not, the rifle will often "double" as it bounces off your shoulder and trips the trigger without you even realizing it.

1. If your rifle has TWO STAGES (take up, then resistance) it is almost 98% likely to be "OK."

2. However, you can certainly check if anything is broken or the trigger or hammer pins are loose/moved.

3. Next, drop the hammer (pull the trigger). Now, HOLD the trigger back and then pull the HAMMER back. It should catch on the sear hooks. If not, you have a problem (defective/modified sear/hammer).

4. Get another (complete) trigger/housing and switch. If it doubles again, it is almost without any doubt "you."
 

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I will say, its nice to have a backup hammer in any case, so if you can find a decent one, at a good price, pick it up.

Next time you go to a gun show, take your hammer with you and compare it to what you see is available. Even if there's nothing really wrong with your hamme its nice to be able to compare its level of wear to an NOS hammer.
 

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Is this a new Service grade Special with a new stock? like Hugo said check it with the rifle unloaded. Pull the trigger and hold it back. Now move the oprod and bolt about halfways back back and let it go forward. You should hear a click as it reengages the main sear when you let off on it, the trigger. If you don't look at the side and see if the hammer followed the bolt. If it did remove the receiver from the stock and try test again. If it does work correctly out of the stock the problem is the stock itself not allowing the hammer to reset. If it doesn't reset problem is in trigger group.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Great Suggestions here

First thank you all for the feedback , as to answer most of the questions ,
yes warm , 48 rounds M2 HXP 69 ammo, Standing as if I'm competing in high-power slow, ill look at the hammer and the ears.
Will be reloading again when prices become reasonable for supplies or i make more money.GI2
Cold day 52f but 1 hour into shooting slow fire.

I will also look at the bolts FP as well.DI5

I do have a Spring gauge from Badger when they made them ill be checking the op rod spring as well but what i really want is a op rod gauge m any out there?
Again thank you and happy shooting .DI2
 

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Most likely caused by 'bump firing'.

Proper trigger control is to consciously hold the trigger fully rearward until recoil has stopped - then release the trigger to reset for the next shot.

With the trigger fully rearward, the hammer is (should be) securely held back by the 'disconnector' mechanism. When the trigger is allowed to move slightly forward, there is a 'hand-off' of the hammer from the disconnector to the actual sear. Further forward motion of the trigger gives full 1st stage engagement at the sear.

Trying to use a delicate touch of the trigger to fire is sometimes called 'milking the trigger'. This leaves the finger gently resting on the trigger and the motion from recoil is enough to have the finger hit the trigger for another quick shot.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
 

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Auto Fire?

I had the same problem with a Armscorp M14. It was kind of fun, but not safe as you never knew second bullet went. At doing a few parts changes I was able track it down to a nice new looking SA military trigger. Removed the SA trigger that stopped the auto fire. May not be your problem, but it fixed mine.
 

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Maybe as simple as your technic. It's easy to forget follow thru and end up bump firing the rifle without knowing it. Once you learn the difference it will stay with you.
Bingo.,my brother had the same problem with his AR, I was able to coach him out of it and the problem is gone.

As pointed out, check your mechanicals.
 

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Do the safety test in and out of the stock to establish if it is a hammer or stock problem. The stock problem is often a five second fix with a chisel whereas the hammer problem is best corrected by the installation of a new part.
 
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