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I had planned to do some shooting this weekend but the weather did not cooperate. So since it is raining and I being stuck in the house thought to take a few pictures of my now abundant M14 magazine collection and other unique M14 parts.









These are the BPTco. parts I have yet to use, they are pretty cool, the piston is a REV. 2 designed for suppressed M14 type rifles. The other special BPTco. part is a mount for night vision scopes, both the mount and piston are more rare then hens teeth! The other parts are a BPTco. spring guide, stock liner and bi-pod mount. They will be used in my next M14, a suppressed XM25!

Mr. Mateiko gave my stock liner a personal touch, my initials!


Of the M14 bayonets, the Aerial is by far the most difficult to find, but finding one new from the packaging is near impossible. Here is that one!



While these are not particularly rare, they are if in new condition! The trigger groups are from all new parts except the TRW which is as close to new as I could find, the WInchester and the SA. are all new parts! The NM rear sights are new, finding them in any condition is difficult, new forget about it!




REN
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Couple more pictures.
These hammers are spares, all new!



Try to find one of these, a new original dated 10-69 NM leather sling! I was lucky to have gotten two, just so happens thats the number of XM21s I plan on building!


These are in excellent condition.



REN
 

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Thank you for sharing! How do you do your color fill on the stampings? I have tried various ways (as seen on youtube) but can never get them to come out as clear and sharp as yours!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for sharing! How do you do your color fill on the stampings? I have tried various ways (as seen on youtube) but can never get them to come out as clear and sharp as yours!
Here ya go!

This is how the pros do it, works like a charm.

First off here are the things you will need to make this quick, painless and have the look of a pro.

1. Lacquer Stik in you choice of color(Yellow,White or Red) they all look good when done right.
2. Mineral Oil
3. Typing Paper(garden variety nothing special)
4. Qtips(swabs)
5. Acetone
6. Cotton Balls
7. Bowl

First cut the typing paper into strips, for working with windage and elevation knobs you will need to cut the strips about a half inch wide and two or three inches in length. When working on the heel stamp cut about an inch wide and three inches in length.
Make sure to cut plenty as typing paper is cheap and you will need lots.

Pour a very small amount of mineral oil in a bowl, it will be used for removing excess paint.

Everything else being laid out and ready for use.

The very first thing that needs to be done is cleaning the area that is to be painted, this is done with the acetone and the cotton balls. I hold the cotton ball over the opening to the acetone bottle and tip over. Then I commence to wiping the area thoroughly, repeat until you are 100 percent certain the oils and other contaminates have been removed.

Next take your paint stik and sharpen the edge much like you would a pencil, just not quite as sharp. Take the stik and rub it across the stamp in one direction and then the other making sure to completely fill in the lettering. Try to be careful and do the best you can without getting paint all over the place, but not to worry as clean up will be a piece of pie(Indian Humor) its really cake!

Now heres where the typing paper comes in, take your paper in hand and wipe in one direction only and only once, pickup another piece of typing paper and wipe again lightly. When you have wiped to the point the paper is still clean you have done all you can do with the dry paper. Now you will carefully bend the next piece of typing paper in half and dip the bend barely touching the mineral oil. You don't want much on the paper, now wipe again just like before, in one direction only and only once or twice and very lightly. Continue on like this until all the excess paint has been removed. Remember to wipe lightly and don't saturate your typing paper with mineral oil. Then take a dry strip of paper and wipe away the excess mineral oil. You can experiment and find what works best for you, but this will get you started with great results!

If you do make a mistake just start all over it is that easy. I myself can literally do a heel stamp in like five minutes.

Now put it away and don't touch it for at least 24 hours or longer and it will turn out perfect.

The key to a job well done is having no excess paint, so you get a good contrast between color and park.

The windage and pinion knobs are a bit more tricky but basically the same, just more delicate. I use the swabs to clean the knobs raised edges, just dip them in the mineral oil and go to work.

Good Luck!

Ren

 

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I see Ripsaw is trying to dump 300 more of those forgings and some other stuff he picked up when GWLA's M1A production went belly up.
Might be a good chance for you to add to your collection.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I see Ripsaw is trying to dump 300 more of those forgings and some other stuff he picked up when GWLA's M1A production went belly up.
Might be a good chance for you to add to your collection.
Always with the negative waves.

REN
 

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Here ya go!

This is how the pros do it, works like a charm.

First off here are the things you will need to make this quick, painless and have the look of a pro.

1. Lacquer Stik in you choice of color(Yellow,White or Red) they all look good when done right.
2. Mineral Oil
3. Typing Paper(garden variety nothing special)
4. Qtips(swabs)
5. Acetone
6. Cotton Balls
7. Bowl

First cut the typing paper into strips, for working with windage and elevation knobs you will need to cut the strips about a half inch wide and two or three inches in length. When working on the heel stamp cut about an inch wide and three inches in length.
Make sure to cut plenty as typing paper is cheap and you will need lots.

Pour a very small amount of mineral oil in a bowl, it will be used for removing excess paint.

Everything else being laid out and ready for use.

The very first thing that needs to be done is cleaning the area that is to be painted, this is done with the acetone and the cotton balls. I hold the cotton ball over the opening to the acetone bottle and tip over. Then I commence to wiping the area thoroughly, repeat until you are 100 percent certain the oils and other contaminates have been removed.

Next take your paint stik and sharpen the edge much like you would a pencil, just not quite as sharp. Take the stik and rub it across the stamp in one direction and then the other making sure to completely fill in the lettering. Try to be careful and do the best you can without getting paint all over the place, but not to worry as clean up will be a piece of pie(Indian Humor) its really cake!

Now heres where the typing paper comes in, take your paper in hand and wipe in one direction only and only once, pickup another piece of typing paper and wipe again lightly. When you have wiped to the point the paper is still clean you have done all you can do with the dry paper. Now you will carefully bend the next piece of typing paper in half and dip the bend barely touching the mineral oil. You don't want much on the paper, now wipe again just like before, in one direction only and only once or twice and very lightly. Continue on like this until all the excess paint has been removed. Remember to wipe lightly and don't saturate your typing paper with mineral oil. Then take a dry strip of paper and wipe away the excess mineral oil. You can experiment and find what works best for you, but this will get you started with great results!

If you do make a mistake just start all over it is that easy. I myself can literally do a heel stamp in like five minutes.

Now put it away and don't touch it for at least 24 hours or longer and it will turn out perfect.

The key to a job well done is having no excess paint, so you get a good contrast between color and park.

The windage and pinion knobs are a bit more tricky but basically the same, just more delicate. I use the swabs to clean the knobs raised edges, just dip them in the mineral oil and go to work.

Good Luck!

Ren

This really should be a sticky.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This really should be a sticky.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you sir, the real trick is the typing/copy paper, it does not absorb much, and it is fairly stiff so it won’t dig out the color like paper towels and other materials.

If you follow my advice you will do just as well as I have done. It will give the appearance of a museum quality piece!

REN
 

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Great pics, as always! You do know M14s shoot fine in the rain, right? Lets see some pics of them beauties in the rain and mud!

Yep, I enjoy giving you nightmares! It would frighten me too if mine were that nice.

If you shoot rifles half as good as you shoot pictures, you will have some sweet groups! I wish I could take pics anywhere near as good as yours.

NICE GAS PLUG WRENCH! These are tough to find for sure
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Me too. A suppressed xm25 is what I consider the ultimate M14. One of these days.......
I am with you Shaun, the suppressed XM21 with an Original Sionics Suppressor and a suppressed XM25 would be two M14 types I could never get rid of! Holy Cow, you just don't see them! A correctly suppressed XM21, with all correct parts including an original Sionics suppressor, I am trying to think of how many I have seen......NONE!

Though I have yet to receive it, this one is mine. I took these pictures at the shop holding it for me while the BATF does its thing.






As I am sure you are aware, I plan on having clones built of this rare suppressor, with twenty already on the list to own one!

I am in the process of finding an original suppressor for the XM25, do you have any suggestions? I will find one!
REN
 

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No, no suggestions for the xm25 suppressor. I will probably just use a good current production can on mine, if I ever get to that build. I have a couple other projects ahead of it. Keep looking, one will turn up eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No, no suggestions for the xm25 suppressor. I will probably just use a good current production can on mine, if I ever get to that build. I have a couple other projects ahead of it. Keep looking, one will turn up eventually.
Thanks Shaun, I will get it figured out, in no real hurry. It will probably pop up when least expected.

REN
 
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