M14 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought some stocks from Fred's and am very happy with them. They are cleaning up very nice. Have a couple of questions though.

Is it possible to remove the forward sling swivel without drilling it? It looks to me to be riveted. And if so, how would I replace it? I'd like to get all the hardware off before refinishing.



And the metal liner inside the stock looks like it needs a very small spanner wrench to remove it. Is there a special tool to do that, or should I just leave it in and work around it?

Question 3, the metal bands on the fore end and hand guard, how do I take those off, and put them back on?

Sure would appreciate any advice on this, thanks!



 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,107 Posts
A spanner tool is necessary to remove the stock liner and it is available from Brownell's.

I suggest you not attempt to remove the front swivel or the front ferrule. They were installed at the factory and not intended to be removed. Others will have a different opinion, but if you remove them and re-install them, they will never again look original.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
I second not removing or attempting to remove the front sling swivel and the ferrule. You can place tape over them to protect them and be very careful when you work near them. Also protect the DOD and "P" proofs. Hand sanding is better than electric, IMO. Some folks think that speed is everything.

Oh, and that black Walnut stock looks perfect to me! :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,482 Posts
I removed mine by drilling the inside of the rivet out with a larger drill bit and then reinstalling with a Allen cap screw, had to counter drill (recess) the woood on the inside where the nuts go otherwise the gas cylinder rubs on them.

Garden valley nailed it, I bought my stock liner tool from Fulton armory but brownells sells them too.

Here's a link: http://www.fulton-armory.com/stocklinerscrewtool.aspx
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Ok,
1. drill the rivet from the inside of the stock, with a bit that is bigger than the rivet.
You just want to get rid of the flange on the rivet.
2. Tap out the rivet with a punch , make sure the stock is well protected and secure to table or vise. The rivet will have washers ,if possible save the washers.

To install new rivets.
You will need some riveting tools. Ball pean hammer; a small eyelet setting tool. maybe an anvil.
You can get a setting tool from www.Brettunsvillage.com In the leather section.
If you skip the anvil, set the rivet on the top of a vise.

Hawk; on the M14BR forum might have some rivets in his HAWK KITs section. If not; put in a post to buy in the classifieds.
Or measure the rivet head and you can get some from Brettuns; they maybe to long you can grind them down with a dremel or grinder.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,938 Posts
Ok,
1. drill the rivet from the inside of the stock, with a bit that is bigger than the rivet.
You just want to get rid of the flange on the rivet.
2. Tap out the rivet with a punch , make sure the stock is well protected and secure to table or vise. The rivet will have washers ,if possible save the washers.

To install new rivets.
You will need some riveting tools. Ball pean hammer; a small eyelet setting tool. maybe an anvil.
I got my setting tool from www.Brettunsvillage.com In the leather section.
If you skip the anvil, set the rivet on the top of a vise.

Hawk; on the M14BR forum might have some rivets in his HAWK KITs section. If not; put in a post to buy in the classifieds.
Or measure the rivet head and you can get some from Brettuns; they maybe to long you can grind them down with a dremel or grinder.

What size tool did you order? small or large? Thanks for the link.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Big red

And if you are thinking of doing a front sling swivel repair on a Big Red.

The regular rivets are to SHORT to go thru the Big Red.

I used regular steel rivets; put them in the big red stock; Marked them than add a 1/8 inch to the mark; and grind off the excess. and re-install and tap them gently with a 5 lb. ball peen hammer.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks again for the help. I've got the stocks refinished and they came out really nice. I've got a couple more questions if yall don't mind. I've found all new hardware and would really like to replace it.

1. I know I was advised not to remove the ferules, but I've got some new ones. So assuming one was going to replace them, how do you take them off and put them on? The hand guard bands are no problem, got a tool to do that from Brownells.

2. I'd like to replace the GI butt plate on one of them with a recoil pad, not for recoil but for a longer pull length. I've seen a few on-line but their reviews are not very good. Who makes a good one that will fit into the GI plate cut-out?

Thanks for input!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,482 Posts
SAI makes a nice one, it's rubber, I have that one currently on a fiberglass usgi.

EDIT:

Here's one sold by Fulton and brownells.
http://www.fulton-armory.com/buttplaterubberrecoilpadm14m1a.aspx

I also have this one, very heavy duty and fits usgi profile stocks but isn't perfect, has some variation but I like it a lot.
Both of these add about 1" of added LOP. The Springfield one is a better fit and finish and is made of a softer rubber.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you sir, I just ordered the one from Fulton. 1" LOP increase will be perfect. Just what I was looking for. I looked for them on the SAI website and don't find them listed, although they come on the new SOCOMS now. Maybe I should just call them on the phone. They are cheap enough to buy 2 anyway.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks, that's about what I decided. They must sell them at SAI. I'll call them tomorrow.

Any advice on replacing those front stock ferules, other than don't? I don't like don't and can't very much. If it can be done I can do it, and it must be possible or they wouldn't sell replacements. Drilling and replacing rivets are no problem. I build custom boats and custom furniture so am used to a little shop work.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
Thanks, that's about what I decided. They must sell them at SAI. I'll call them tomorrow.

"...and it must be possible or they wouldn't sell replacements."

You are assuming the ferrules that you have are replacements. Why do you not think that they are simply production overruns? Don't be one of these guys: "If it ain't broke, fix it until it is". Let a sleeping ferrule lie. :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
We are replacing them when they are to rusty and pitted. Or cracked.

If yo want to replace them;; you get a small screwdriver or something like a small screwdriver and from inside the stock start to lift the metal. keep working a little bit at a time. DO NOT TRY LIFTING THE METAL FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE STOCK.

To install clean the wood and put some liquid epoxy on and inside the ferrule than push it on. clean up the mess and drop your barrel and receiver in the stock to make sure it is not to long or to short. and leave the receiver and barrel in till the epoxy is hard.

Don't replace the ferrule just because some finish is worn off, when you put on a new one you will wear off the finish by installing your rifle every time you take it apart and put it back together.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
Good point! Maybe so.

I still have to wonder though. If vendors sell them, then somebody must be buying and replacing them.

You were on the right track all along! I think outside the box too much sometimes. I'm glad you found the right advice from the right person. He educated me, too! (Thanks, Chief!)


HA! Now I'll have to find one to keep on hand as a spare. :)
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top