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Thanks for that info. Are you using something like this to cut them down?

Yep. The harbor freight saw.

I've also used the dillon case trimmer to form the blackout case all in one motion, but its a lot of cutting for the dillon. I think using the harbor freight to cut off the neck is the better way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thanks for that info. Are you using something like this to cut them down?

I’d look up the brass you’ll be trying. Some brass thickness can be a problem. I’m sure the poster knows and does it accurately. My buddy and I tried it and dug up some good info on what brass is best for sizing/necking for 300aac
 

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I’d look up the brass you’ll be trying. Some brass thickness can be a problem. I’m sure the poster knows and does it accurately. My buddy and I tried it and dug up some good info on what brass is best for sizing/necking for 300aac
Please elaborate more on what the problem is with some brass. Is it that this particular machine can’t cut some brass?
 

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Some brass will be too thick in the neck and will not chamber unless you neck turn the cases. Some brass works perfectly for the conversion. There's no issue with the chop saw cutting the brass. you need to research what brass works and what doesn't. You can cause yourself a lot of headaches if you don't know what you're doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
FLIGHT762 said it. I’m not sure how to tell accept others folks experience with reloading. I went with my buddy telling me what not to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Ok great. Can you tell me what brass not to use? Is LC , and SSA brass to try if those are ok for conversion.
This was about 4 years ago. XTAC (I had a bunch of it) and something else. We loaded them at his place and shot together. I see it’s on the list in Flatfoots sticky. That sticky has measurements too, that’s awesome.
 
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