[Lucien417]

Ok guys, I just picked up 2 LRB stripped lowers to try my hand a building. I've been looking some tools that are needed and was curious...I see a few different lower vise blocks ranging in price from a few dollars to around $50. Are there really any differences between them? Are there any I should stay away from?

 

[sfc higgins]

I just took a piece of old 2X4 and cut it to fit in the mag well, so the cost was almost nothing. It wasn't even pretty so I painted it black just to keep me from tossing it in the trash by accident.

So far it's been fine over the last 5 AR's I've built.

 

[Lucien417]

I've seen videos of people doing that..may give it a try. Any suggestions on the commercial blocks?

 

[twobyfour]

Squirrel Daddy sells the upper and lower block combo on Amazon for $20. The upper receiver block is a solid piece of aluminum with two notches milled out for your receiver lugs and they use really tight fitting pins with cotter pins to hold in place. The lower receiver block is a solid piece of strong Delrin plastic that fits into the mag well. They worked well for the two AR's I built. Also, make sure you have a good torque wrench for getting the barrel nut on there. You don't want to over or under torque the barrel nut. I would also get some decent punches, and of course an armorer's wrench if you don't already have those. I spent a grand total of $50 on tools to build both my AR-15's. They are pretty fun and easy to put together.

 

[oodnoodn]

I've never used a lower vice block, but I've only built a few dozen ARs. If I saw the benefit in using one I would have got one by now.

Now an upper vice block is awful handy if you're going to build your own upper or remove/install barrels.

 

[dragon6097]

I've never used a lower vice block either. There's really nowhere that you'll be torquing down on. Now, upper vise blocks are highly suggested when tightening your barrel nut. I use this one though I'm sure you can find something cheaper.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...cks/ar-15-upper-receiver-block-prod17094.aspx

 

[Thor]

I have an upper vise block for changing barrels, but I've never owned or used a lower vise block.

 

[Mrp010]

I use both the lower and upper blocks. The lower helps when putting the roll pins in.

The clamp style upper can leave marks on the stripped upper. The one with pins won't. The marks are not a big deal in my opinion but I can see them...

They are cheap. If you plan to build ar's might as well have them.

Ebay is a good source too.

Get a bench vise if you don't have one maybe 4in. And a set of punches, brass hammer.

Tip... Wrap the lower in something (elec tape, ace wrap, coban <best) to protect it when putting in the bolt release roll pin. Hardest one to place and easiest to scratch up your lower. Take your time.

 

[Girth]

Buddy uses an old junk Thermold mag clamped in his vise. Seemed like a great idea to me. Just there to hold it really, while you fiddle with other stuff. Its the upper that you really need to concern yourself with. Really its the upper you need tools for too.

For giggles, I assembled my last lower with a flat tip screwdriver (tip used to hold things where I wanted them, like detent pins. Handle used as mallet), a #0 Phillips screwdriver (as a punch to drive roll pins) a Faspin from the LWR Cabin door step off a CH-47 GI1 (fits the holes for takedown pins perfectly) and a spanner wrench for the stock castle nut. As pictured. More than one way to skin the cat. GI2

 

[Willie_Maker]

The new Magpul Bev Block is pretty cool for a lower block. It also will work for an upper block as well. About $50. Reviews are good, I have not tried one but its on my short list.
In the meantime I took an old colt 20rd mag that was bad, inserted and screwed a piece of 1x2 into the base of the mag and have been using that for years. The wood hangs below the bottom of the mag, just clamp it into the bench vise and you're good to go.

 

[Earthquake]

I was going to buy a upper clamshell block to torque the barrel nut until I found the wrench that SAPPNASTY posted in another thread Thank SAPPNASTY!
I built a few AR's 20+ years ago with a set of barrel blocks and a GI Armorers wrench.
Now with this new wrench you clamp the barrel nut wrench in the vise and use the the new wrench in the bolt Carrier ways, it is the best way I have torqued a barrel on a AR.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ar-15-m16-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod27452.aspx?aid=10078&source=ir&cm_mmc=affiliate-_-Itwine-_-IR-_-60594
They have a video showing how to use it.

Casey

 

[RealtorEHS]

I use a Brownells vise block made of a sturdy extruded plastic and can recommend it highly.. I think I paid $20 bucks for it 20 years ago? I have an upper clamp as well and used it to good success for years... Now I have migrated to a Geissele Reaction Rod and use one for my 5.56's and one for my .308's They are not cheap by any stretch of the imagination but they are far superior to a block for installing barrels and Barrel Nuts or floating hand-guards. they take all of the torque off of the upper receiver.

 

[RealtorEHS]

In case some of you are curious ... here is the Reaction Rod.

 

[maddogthegreatest]

Assembling front take down pin is not hard but if you slip your pin will fly away..RNGR1
I use somthing like this..

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-4-in-x-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Universal-Clevis-Pin-88008/202210286

Watch this before try to assemble front take down pin..

[ame]https://youtu.be/XJNaTjvQaVQ[/ame]

 

[bmyk]

Some tips from limited experience, in no particular order...
Start with a quality LPK from a reputable dealer. I like Brownells branded LPKs.
ALG QMS triggers are great, the ACT is even awesomer.
Get a milspec buffer tube.
I use a razor blade to hold the detent and spring down when installing the front take down pin. I taped a dull utility razor blade so I could hold it safely. I use the bare portion of the blade to hold the spring and detent down while inserting the take down pin. A helper really ... helps with this.
Have spare detents and springs. ...
Make sure the ear is supported on the bottom when installing your trigger guard, many have snapped these off and ruined their lowers. Place the lower on it's side on a scrap piece of wood. When you are pushing in the rear pin, it can snap off the lower ear if not supported.
Use a channel locks or pliers to press in the bolt hold open latch pin. Also, you can use some tape to prevent scuffing the finish.
Don't crimp the rear take down pin detent spring...have spares.
Verify the orientation of the fire control springs....they can be installed incorrectly (shame face)
Some grips may require a washer or two on the grip screw...(Magpul OEMs). I like to chase the threads first to ensure the screw goes as far as it needs.
Don't crimp the safety detent spring when attaching the grip....have spares.
Carful with the buffer retention spring and detent when installing the buffer tube....have spares.
Stake your castle nut ONLY when you are sure you the end plate you want....
Function check to ensure you got it right.
Add some lube and dry fire the lower a bunch to smooth everything up, but DO NOT let the hammer slam into the lower. Use your support hand thumb to catch and reset the hammer...You can do this about 100 times during a tv commercial.
If your fire control pins back out, your springs are probably in worng. (shame face).
Good luck

Assembling front take down pin is not hard but if you slip your pin will fly away..RNGR1
I use somthing like this..

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-4-in-x-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Universal-Clevis-Pin-88008/202210286

Watch this before try to assemble front take down pin..

https://youtu.be/XJNaTjvQaVQ

 

[mjensenwv]

In case some of you are curious ... here is the Reaction Rod.

I love my reaction rod. Crucial for upper work, like FF rails and barrel installation.

I've never owned a lower vice block, never saw the point in one.

 

[Jgun]

I like the PRI upper vise block because it works for both the small and large platform uppers. I also like their barrel nut wrenches because one of them (I don't recall which) covers a number of different barrel nut types as well. Of course, this doesn't mean that you mount the block in the vise and tighten the barrel while depending on the pins in the pivot and take down lugs, you sandwish the upper and block in the vise (protecting the pic rail) when tightening and loosening the barrel nuts and handguards. I've also found the delrin block helpful when installing the gas tube roll pins in the gas blocks.



http://www.precisionreflex.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=186606&CAT=4215

 

[Albud3]

I've built 30+ ARs for myself and friends and have never needed a lower receiver block. A small padded plastic hobby vice (Hobby Lobby, Michaels, model shops, etc, used to hold wood, plastic and other light materials) is all I've every used. The only thing torqued on the lower is the rifle buffer/extension ttube and that's really not necessary. "Good'n tight" works. The vice is handy when driving in roll pins and installing springs, but again not really needed.
The use of pliers or Vice Grips to install the Bolt Hold open pin is not recommended as I've seen too many lowers marred when they slip and they will! Simply taper one end of the roll pin with a small flat file and drift it in with a punch and hammer. Put down about 4-5+ layers of masking tape on the receiver so if you slip you won't mar the receiver. As for the front takedown pin, get a three inch aluminum rod of the same diameter of the pin and drill a through hole the same size as the spring/detent hole. Using a round jeweller's file, put a slight ramp (or two) so when you twist the rod the detent will easily follow the twist. Insert the rod so that you can insert the spring and insert into the receiver, push in with the punch, twist the rod so it's holding them in and push the rod out using the pin. Takes longer to read how than to do. Easiest way I've found to do and I haven't lost springs or detents since.