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    1. · Registered
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      Great advice and info. Chief your first fix method with the pins seems the most secure. The glue/clamp method may work with less effort. The crack is only one side and goes from the back to the middle of the magazine area, where it stops. Here is a pic a bit closer of the most noticeable part with strong top light.
      If the stock doesn't have the receiver serial # stamp on it or any other stampings to identify it to the iron then you can try finding one thru the military surplas sites aka Sarco, Numerich Arms. If you decide to repair the crack then I suggest Brownells Acraglass over wood glue and other retail store bought items. The Acraglass will hold for a life time and under harsher extremes than wood and super glues will do. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...bedding-adhesives/acraglas-gel--prod1038.aspx
       
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      Discussion Starter · #17 ·
      If the stock doesn't have the receiver serial # stamp on it or any other stampings to identify it to the iron then you can try finding one thru the military surplas sites aka Sarco, Numerich Arms. If you decide to repair the crack then I suggest Brownells Acraglass over wood glue and other retail store bought items. The Acraglass will hold for a life time and under harsher extremes than wood and super glues will do. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...bedding-adhesives/acraglas-gel--prod1038.aspx
      I'll check the surplus arena out, maybe I will luck up on an original. They seem pretty scarce though. The crack on this one disappears totally when I clamp it so I'll take a shot at the repair first.

      Spreading the crack only yields a tiny gap as in the pic. I stressed it to show it better. Not enough room for a needle, maybe floss but that can't help but get messy. I need something thin that will wick in and easily wipe off the stock without leaving any residue. No room to get to it from the inside. Someone suggested Titebond III (PVA like Elmers) since it can be diluted a bit and wiped off with water until it sets up. When hardened it is waterproof.

      I'm leaning toward Acraglass since I believe they send it with dye and people swear by it. My biggest concern is making the repair invisible so the dye is a good add. Titebond dries a light brown I think. Going to pick up a bottle at Lowes and try it on some scrap, also going to order the Acraglass just in case to try out also on scrap wood.

      Thanks for the assist.
       
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